This two-bedroom apartment on the Ile de la Cité underwent a complete face-lift in 1998 that transformed it from a drab and tired two-floor walkup with a great view into a beautiful and comfortable property - still, of course, with the same great view directly overlooking the Seine and Pont Neuf. Once-dark spaces are now filled with light, ceiling moldings have been restored to their former grandeur, faded walls have been painted a soft yellow and herringbone parquet floors refinished to a high gloss. If it were a restaurant, the Michelin Guide would have just awarded the apartment two stars, and declared that despite its lofty price it is (to borrow a phrase from the Guide) "well worth a detour" from lesser apartments or over-priced hotel suites. One of the neighbors on the Ile de la Cité is Notre Dame, the legendary cathedral visited by millions each year. The traditional bateaux mouches that offer a perspective of the city from the River Seine pass by Notre Dame and Ile de la Cité; previous renters have commented that the lights from the passing boats' night tours can be distracting. Indeed, the façade of the historic building is so attractive as to induce curiosity and wonder about the elegant gatherings that may be taking place inside. The floor-length custom-made silk curtains can be drawn if lights become intrusive.
A striking feature of this fine apartment is its brightness and wonderfully airy feeling. There is almost always a slight breeze coming in off the Seine that gently ruffles the curtains framing the tall windows overlooking the river. The windows are oriented northwest, which brings in abundant light. With high ceilings and the elegant but deliberately light-hearted décor - cool colors, off-beat objets d'art, white sofas with throw pillows in the same fabric as the long and graceful apricot-colored window curtains - the ambiance is somewhat similar to being in a breezy seaside villa on the Mediterranean.
The salon, dining room and both bedrooms are connected by a long hallway that has parquet floors and recessed lighting. These four rooms are on the river side of the rectangular-shaped apartment, and all have floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the river. The kitchen and two baths open off the other side of the hallway.
The spacious living room has three love seats (all of which convert to single beds if necessary) arranged before a white marble fireplace crowned by a tall mirror. In the adjacent dining room is yet another fireplace and huge mirror, and an antique wood table and upholstered chairs for up to six guests.
Off the dining room through double doors is the master bedroom, where there is yet another marble fireplace and mirror. (All of the fireplaces are ornamental only; actually, wood-burning fires have been forbidden in Paris for years, although the ban is not rigorously enforced.) This room offers a king-sized bed, a lovely antique chest of drawers and ample closet space in a handsome armoire.
The second bedroom, at the end of the long hallway and somewhat smaller than the master bedroom, also has a king-sized bed and good closet space. (The beds in both bedrooms can be split into two singles if desired.) The bed cover and curtains in this bedroom are in a pleasant off-white. As the bedrooms are on opposite sides of the apartment the occupants of both rooms have full privacy.
Both bathrooms are modern, well illuminated and tiled in marble. One has a full bath with a tub and overhead shower, a wide vanity with single basin and WC. The second bathroom is rather small, with a stall shower, basin and WC, cleverly installed for maximum functionality in the limited space available. Equally bright and modern is the well-equipped kitchen, compact but ingeniously designed, where there is a full array of appliances, including a four-burner stove with oven, refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave oven, coffeemaker and toaster, and combination washing machine and dryer.
The beautiful building that houses this lovely apartment is just steps away from one of our favorite spots in all of Paris, the pacific little Place Dauphine. This triangular-shaped haven of civility, with benches shaded by ancient chestnut trees, has several sleepy little cafés and small restaurants that are frequented by lawyers from the Palais de Justice, which frames the park on its eastern side. The apartment of the great chanteur Yves Montand was on the south side of the park. Boules players gather here quietly in the afternoon, as do lovers, and young mothers with smartly dressed children who delight in chasing the pigeons.
Page