But for those fortunate enough to occupy this impeccably furnished and beautifully maintained apartment there is no sacrifice of view, or of any other creature comfort worth noting. Being situated directly at the island's prow-shaped western tip, the end lying closest to Ile de la Cité, this apartment has an unfettered view of both banks of the city, with Notre Dame, the dome of the Panthéon and the Latin Quarter to the left, the stately Hôtel de Ville (Paris City Hall), the Marais and Montmartre to the right and, ahead, the serpentine course of the Seine and all of western Paris. And at night, with the bridges of the Seine and Notre Dame illuminated, the red warning light atop the Eiffel Tower beckoning on the western horizon and the streetlamps glimmering in parallel rows along the Champs-Elysées from Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe, one understands why Paris is called the City of Light.

This lushly decorated and superbly equipped apartment is on the top floor of what is arguably the most ideally situated building in all of Paris. Clearly no expense has been spared in its renovation. By way of example, under the gleaming white tile countertops and among the super-modern appliances in the spacious kitchen there is even a trash compactor - an amusing excess and the only device of its kind we have seen in Paris. Of more immediate utility is the state-of-the-art Bang & Olufson stereo system, which features speakers hidden in the walls and a portable control center that responds to a mere touch of the finger. Other amenities include a fax, television and a VCR that accepts European-size tapes.

The apartment is reached through a marble-lined lobby entered through a security-controlled wrought-iron gate. The elevator, large for Paris, rises to a fifth-floor landing shared by only one other apartment. The entry lies a few steps further along a sunny glass corridor.

The first impression upon entering this apartment is that is unfailingly luxurious, totally private, and extraordinarily bright. The ambiance is also one of great warmth, as created by the gorgeous parquet floor, beige wall covering, handsome blue drapes, fabrics in deep rich colors and extensive use of boiserie (fine woodwork and paneling), in this case honey-colored faux marbre over dark blonde wood. The décor is in a tasteful contemporary style that is complemented by several discreetly placed antiques, sofas and armchairs in traditional style, and occasional Oriental accents. The overall effect is one of carefully managed luxury, comfort and good taste.

The dining area, which occupies one corner of the main salon, has a pretty round table large enough for six. Off the main living room is a cozy salon with a (working) fireplace in polished marble, comfortable armchairs, a coffee table and, of course, a view toward Notre Dame. Beyond this smaller salon lie the two bedrooms.

The master bedroom has a queen-sized bed, a view toward Notre Dame and a beautiful ensuite bath with double vanity and brass fixtures. The second, smaller bedroom, which has a fine dark wood desk and thus may also function as an office, has a double sofabed. This bedroom uses a bath (shower only) that lies across the corridor. There is also a powder room off the foyer.