Balzac was right in Le Père Goriot: Paris is like an infinitely deep ocean, and when you try to sound its depths, you never find the bottom. We were reminded of Paris' limitless possibilities when we recently inspected the commodious rooms of this handsomely decorated apartment and were introduced to a quartier we weren't familiar with - the swath of broad boulevards and small streets that cuts through the central 17th arrondissement to link the Parc de Monceau with the avenue des Champs-Élysées and Arc de Triomphe in the 8th arrondissement.
This is a distinctly upper-class neighborhood - clean, quiet, a place of venerable apartment buildings and shops whose well-ordered window displays speak to the needs of Parisian daily life. The neighborhood came into being and took on its haute bourgeoise character as part of the Baron von Haussman's massive reorganization of Paris at the behest of Napoléon III in the latter part of the 19th century. And while we love the Ile Saint-Louis and St.-Germain-des-Prés and Marais quartiers where many of our apartments are located, in many ways this quiet, leafy neighborhood is a refreshing change.
One of the apartment's greatest features is its proximity to the Parc Monceau, which many feel - and we are inclined to agree - is perhaps the most singularly enchanting patch of greenery in all of Paris. Another advantage is that it is only a two-minute walk to rue Lévis, one of Paris great market streets, a cornucopia of butchers and bakers, fromagers, green grocers and every other conceivable kind of enterprise devoted to the pleasures of French food and drink. The Grands Magasins, Galeries Lafayette and Au Printemps, are just three métro stops away.
The apartment is situated at the intersection of avenue de Villiers and the little rue de la Terrasse, near boulevard de Courcelles. As such it is well located for easy access to all parts of Paris. A Métro stop (Villiers) is less than a two-minute walk, as is a taxi stand. It is only four stops from Villiers to the No. 1 Métro line, which runs like a straight arrow from La Défense east to Bastille, with stops whose names could be lifted straight from the American Express Guide to Paris - Etoile-Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, Madeleine, Tuileries, Palais Royal, Louvre, Hôtel de Ville. And for those taking the train to visit Monet's Gardens in Giverny or the landing beaches of Normandy, the Gare St.-Lazare (a favorite subject of Monet) is a fifteen-minute walk or two Métro stops away.
The apartment itself follows classic Parisian pattern of major rooms opening off a large central foyer. The bedroom lies ahead, the living room to the right, and the kitchen, unusually large by Parisian standards, to the left. There is also a guest lavatory with WC off the foyer. Altogether the apartment comprises 103m2 (about 1,175 sq. ft.). The floors are the original 19th-century herringbone parquet, now beautifully restored. With its high molded ceilings, extensive woodwork, floor-to-ceiling drapes and three striking marble fireplaces (in accordance with Parisian law, they do not work), the apartment has an ambiance of classic elegance.
The bedroom has a black marble fireplace with a gilded mirror above it, a chest of drawers, queen-sized bed, walk-in closet with wide shelves and plenty of storage space, and a television with cable reception, including CNN and BBC. The ensuite bath, brilliantly illuminated and tiled in white, has a bathtub with overhead shower. An especially appealing feature for writers and laptop users is the wide cherry-wood desk by the fireplace, where there is a fax machine on a separate phone line.
As the apartment is on the premier étage (second American floor) overlooking the avenue de Villiers, there is some noise from sidewalk activity when the double-pane windows are open during the day. But, as we have confirmed with JUST FRANCE clients who spent several months in the apartment, the bedroom is quiet at night even with the windows open, and is virtually soundproof when the windows and drapes are closed.
Between the bedroom and living room is a charming room - spacious yet with a cozy feel, and filled with light tall windows that overlook avenue de Villiers - that serves as a sitting room-cum-library where guests can relax or watch television, also with cable reception. Ranged in front of a beautiful rose-colored marble fireplace with a gilded mirror are a sofa upholstered in a yellow and rose floral pattern, and two matching armchairs. The sofa converts into a 140cm (55" across) double bed for an additional guest.
The living room, which measures about 35m2 (about 375 sq. ft.) is decorated with 18th and 19th-century antiques, elegant fabrics and several impressive oil paintings. The room is illuminated by table lamps, wall sconces and a crystal chandelier, and two floor-to-ceiling windows, framed by heavy drapes, provide abundant natural light. Furnishings include a long sofa and a loveseat, two armchairs and a round dining table for four (with leaves it can be expanded to accommodate ten). A full stereo system with CD player and a telephone answering machine are concealed in a closet.
Guests who bring home fresh meat and produce from the rue de Lévis open-air market or nearby Monoprix supermarket will enjoy the well-equipped kitchen which offers plenty of countery-space. In addition to the normal appliances - dishwasher, big two-door refrigerator, four-burner halogen cooktop and oven - the kitchen includes a microwave oven, coffeemaker, toaster, and for laundering a washing machine and separate tumble dryer. The cabinetry is black and white, offset by walls of a subtle sage green.
This is an ideal apartment for a couple, particularly those who have previously stayed in Paris' more tourist-y areas and are searching for a bit more of Vrai Paris . We recommend it warmly to those who like space, a classic French style and modern comforts, all in a classy quartier that has retained its ambiance of Belle Époque affluence.