One can imagine the view they enjoyed from the quai de Béthune in those days. Seen through tall windows accented by panes of stained glass, the Seine plies its ancient course westward toward the Ilé de la Cité and Notre Dame. Framed against the sky are the roofs and chimneys and steeples of the Left Bank, many of them still part of the cityscape today. And beyond the noble façade of the building are the slate sidewalks where the great architect Le Vau, and 200 years later the likes of Baudelaire, Chopin and Rimbaud, might be seen making their way.

The furnishings in this striking apartment on the quai de Béthune have changed, but the structural features, pâtisserie molding and other fine interior details remain. Still present are the high ceilings and delicate molding, cut-glass chandelier, the gilded mirrors over the two mantelpieces and the exquisite hardwood floors, hand-crafted in a herringbone pattern and polished to a high sheen. All around is fine boisierie with gilt highlights, and walls of pale yellow that emphasize the woody tones of the wainscoting.

Of course certain other amenities not available in the 18th century have been added, notably a well-equipped kitchen, two modern baths, cable television and high-speed internet access. Now guests can enjoy a spacious apartment (about 80m2, 860 sq. ft.) with an enviable combination of old-world elegance and contemporary comfort.

The ground-floor apartment is reached by passing from the quai de Béthune through a courtyard to the building lobby, where five stone steps lead to a double-door entrance. The softly illuminated foyer has patterned stone floors and a striking antique chest of drawers. Beyond the foyer lies the living room and, through the a leaded-glass window, a view directly on the Seine.

It is hard to imagine a clearer statement of classic Louis XVI style than the living room of this apartment. The parquet floors, crystal chandelier, comfortable sofa and armchairs, built-in bookcases and sculpted wall panels are living examples of decorative motifs that were standard in the homes of the rich or well-born in the 18th and 19th centuries. This room is warm and inviting, and the perfect place for receiving friends for cocktails before dinner, or simply for relaxing and reading.

To the right of the living room through double doors is the master bedroom, large and ornate like the living room, and enjoying the same view, with high ceilings and a stunning gray-marble fireplace. Above the mantelpiece is a mirror, and above the mirror to the ceiling a classic 19th-century oil painting depicting a French country scene. This sumptuously appointed room has at one end a seating area that includes a wide, beautifully finished Louis XV mahogany writing desk positioned to give an unfettered view of the Seine. At the opposite end is the sleeping area, with a king-sized bed (which can be split into twin beds) flanked by antique night tables with brass reading lamps. In the bedroom area there is a television with cable reception (including CNN and other international channels) and a compact stereo system with CD player.

Adjoining the bedroom area is a dressing area with large closets, and next to it a full marble bath, done mainly in marble, with bathtub, overhead shower and WC.

Also on the ground floor is the kitchen, spacious and high-ceilinged, which can be entered either from the foyer or from the master bath. The kitchen has plenty of counterspace and is well stocked with place settings for up to six guests. While the kitchen is not especially noteworthy from a design point of view, it has attractive wood paneling, a breakfast table and a full array of modern appliances, including a four-burner stove, dishwasher, good-sized refrigerator and combination washing machine and dryer. The room receives natural light from a window that opens onto a small garden.

Wooden stairs lead from the kitchen to the loft bedroom, which has a somewhat low ceiling and could be uncomfortable for persons taller than around 180cm (6'). The bed here is 140cm (55" across), and there is adequate closet space and illumination for reading. As this sleeping area can be reached only from the kitchen, it affords complete privacy from the occupants of the apartment.

The third bedroom, completely restored in late 2000, is reached by a curving wood staircase that rises from the foyer. This bedroom has a 140cm (55" across) double bed, adequate closet space and a view into the courtyard. The ensuite bath has an overhead shower. As this bedroom comprises a separate suite of rooms apart from the main part of the apartment, it is especially appropriate for guests who desire extra privacy.