Topping off this list is another quality too easily overlooked by prospective renters when evaluating their dream property in Paris: utter peace and quiet in all rooms. This is true despite the apartment's location in the heart of a quartier known for its animation and high-spiritedness. With the spacious living room overlooking a garden where paths wind through rose gardens and shade trees, and the kitchen and two bedrooms overlooking a cobblestone courtyard, the apartment is well insulated from traffic and street noise. Yet it takes only stepping outside onto rue du Cherche-Midi to enter the lively and colorful world of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district. It is the combination one seeks in Paris - activity when you want it, and tranquility when you most need it.

A brief word on the neighborhood:

If for no other reason, rue du Cherche-Midi is known to Paris gourmands because #8 - a short walk from the apartment - is home to Pain Poilâne, the bakery whose crusty country breads can be found on the menus of better Parisian cafes. For visitors to Paris, the street - in particular the portion between rue du Vieux Colombier and rue d'Assas, which includes #23 - is perhaps best known for its variety of women's shoe boutiques, the beautifully displayed wares in each store window more stunning (and more expensive) than the last. Within a five-minute walk of the apartment are a plethora of restaurants in a wide range of price categories, including the Michelin two-star Hélène Darroze on rue d'Assas, and the excellent Brasserie in Hôtel Lutétia. For shopping there is the Bon Marché department store, and in the opposite direction, near boulevard St.-Germain, the grandes marque - Yves St.-Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Armani, Burberry and the like. For bargain hunters rue de Rennes has a variety of shops offering stylish apparel at discount prices. And for aspiring cooks who want to take advantage of the well-equipped kitchen at the apartment there is a wonderful outdoor food market every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday on the tree-lined boulevard Raspail.

Despite all the nearby activity, the rue du Cherche-Midi remains a quiet and pleasant street where one can stroll peacefully or lunch on the outdoor terrace of Le Cherche-Midi, an excellent Italian restaurant (and a favorite of French movie stars) that is a few steps down the street. From the apartment there is easy access to all of Paris: the Sevrès-Babylone and Saint Sulpice Métro stops are each a three-minute walk, and even closer is a taxi stand at Hôtel Lutétia.

The apartment building lies across a courtyard reached through a massive wooden door secured by a digicode. An elevator or one flight of stairs leads to a double-door entrance that opens into the foyer, adjacent to the spacious living room. The guest lavatory is also off the foyer, reached by a short corridor that has abundant storage space.

The living room reflects the decorative style found throughout the apartment. Soft green, blues and pewter colors contrast with the pale white moldings of the high ceilings. Area rugs accentuate the luster of the parquet floors. Antiques and traditional-style furnishings combine with the colors and fabrics to produce an overall effect that is classically Parisian.

At one end of the rectangular living room is a dining table for up to six guests. At the other is a sitting area - sofa, armchairs and a coffee table - in front of a gray marble fireplace. Above the mantle a gilded mirror rises almost to the ceiling. There is a stereo system and, discreetly tucked into a corner, a television with cable reception that includes CNN and BBC.

The living room is illuminated by two chandeliers, wall sconces and table lamps. During the day light flows in from three floor-to-ceiling windows, flanked by drapes, that look onto a pretty garden.

From the foyer a short corridor leads to the tastefully appointed kitchen, unusually spacious by Parisian standards. Adjustable recessed fixtures provide abundant light. The semi-professional Delaubrac stove has a large oven, two gas burners and a square cooktop area that can accommodate a stock pot and several pans. The two-door refrigerator is in a nook with windows overlooking the courtyard. It takes a moment to discover the Miele dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer, which are all concealed by wooden doors that match the walnut cabinetry. There is plentiful counter space, and an oversize soapstone sink.

Beyond the kitchen are two bedrooms, also appointed in the pleasing style found in the public rooms, that open off a short corridor. Both have hardwood floors, tall windows with drapes that overlook a courtyard, bedside tables with reading lamps or sconces, and a chest of drawers. For hanging clothes guests use the storage space in the corridor off the foyer.

The first bedroom, on the small size, has twin beds that can be pushed together to form a queen-sized bed. The all-modern and brilliantly illuminated bathroom immediately across the corridor has a large bathtub with a hand-held shower. As in the master bedroom bath and guest lavatory, the vanity has a polished mahogany counter.

The master bedroom, a charmingly decorated room, has a queen-sized bed and, for decoration, an old steamer trunk. The compact ensuite bath features a huge walk-in marble shower with a sunflower showerhead.

In the corridor next to the bathroom used by occupants of the first bedroom is an independent WC that serves both bedrooms. There is an additional WC in the guest lavatory of the foyer.

The apartment's four-zone heating and air-conditioning system will be a welcome feature to guests with differing ideas of what constitutes a comfortable temperature. The four zones are the living room and foyer, kitchen and each of the two bedrooms.

With its commodious living room and foyer, the apartment is ideal for entertaining friends or business acquaintances while in Paris. Its most endearing qualities, however, lie in the comfort, warmth, convenience and visual appeal that discriminating visitors are accustomed to enjoying during their stay in Paris.

The owner of this apartment declines to rent to smokers.